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  1. #11
    Grizzled Grave Robber Knight of the Round Table neutronbomb's Avatar
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    Re: Deluxe Indiana Jones Temple of Doom jacket by Wested

    Since KT decided to finally chime in 5 yrs later on the subject. In the prototype jacket thread in the jacket section I have outlined all the places in the raiders film where the prototype/Bantu wind/Tod main hero jacket is seen.

  2. #12

    Re: Deluxe Indiana Jones Temple of Doom jacket by Wested

    Very convincing... Nicely done (just don't like the larger yoke so I tend to ignore the prototype)

  3. #13
    Artifact Aficionado Knight of the Round Table Kt Templar's Avatar
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    Re: Deluxe Indiana Jones Temple of Doom jacket by Wested

    Looking again, I have to agree the Bantu is not the Iman.

    We cannot tell if the one used in filming is the same as the jacket he is wearing in the photo on the doc, there is just not enough information in the footage.

    It has the large yoke and the small slit at the bottom of the jacket that the Stunt and ToDs appear to have.



    "Figuring things out for yourself is practically the only freedom anyone really has nowadays. Use that freedom." Jean Rasczak

  4. #14

    Re: Deluxe Indiana Jones Temple of Doom jacket by Wested

    Great exchange this last weeks about ToD and Raiders jackets similarities.
    I'm catching up with all, right now (I was on a trip)

    I hope not to bother, I'm a bit late, but I'd like to give my opinion on certain subjects.

    The fact that Nowak and Peter offered to us accurate replicas of Raiders and ToD jackets, give the opportunity for the fans to fill many voids we had on the film jackets origins.

    As many know, I worked directly on the patterns to replicate both styles, as accurate as possible to the original jackets.
    Off course I've studied both makers offers, and find out WHAT I BELIEVE (note the large letters, it means is my opinion/deduction, not a fact) little modifications to the original patterns.
    Nothing massive, but are there. Some when making sizings progressions, and some to improve fit.

    After this little prologue, I dive into the thread discussion:

    Quote Originally Posted by neutronbomb View Post
    1. This NH TOD jacket pattern is the overall cut and pattern and fit of the Raiders' jacket worn on film. If Wested wants to produce an accurate Raiders replica they should use the NH TOD pattern for cut and fit and make the minor adjustments to transform it into the Raiders main hero and imans jacket. Smaller yoke with offset sleeve seams, back panel flaps configuration at the bottom of the action back, smaller zipper, larger pockets, collar stand construction.
    Exactly what I've find out when making the ToD patterns.
    After doing accurate Raiders patterns, I decided to start working on ToD's.
    Dug out my Wested ToD NH replica.
    Study began, and find out many lines and curves matching the Raiders ones.
    Once finished, I had the ToD pattern....95% similar to the Raiders patterns!!!
    The differences were on the little details, like pocket sizing, closing of the action pleats, collar construction, etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by neutronbomb View Post
    2. Ribby merino may not necessarily have been used for the raiders jackets. Dr. Scobie was incorrect in his identification of the striation marks coming from the skin wrinkles from Ribby merino skins.
    All sheeps and lambs have ribs...
    Depending on the tan method, the ribs can be smoothen or enhanced.

    Look at this MERINO skins.
    Tanned to be smooth, with very little grain.




    IMO Dr. Scobie was correct.
    Because I'm convinced the Raiders jackets were made with MERINO skins.
    But maybe not as grainy as we think.

    Cheers.-

  5. #15
    Grizzled Grave Robber Knight of the Round Table neutronbomb's Avatar
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    Re: Deluxe Indiana Jones Temple of Doom jacket by Wested

    Great post! Thank you for sharing what you found about the TOD pattern similarity to the Raiders main heros' pattern when you Deconstructed it. I spent so many hours studying the raiders film jacket that I knew as soon as I put on the jacket and look in the mirror.

    Maybe I can change your mind about the Merino skins. I know I could if I sent you my jacket. Maybe someday when I visit Argentina I can show you in person.

    Note that dr scobie identified the bubble lines as skin wrinkles from the merino breed including a picture which I showed in the film jacket leather thread with a photo of what it looks like in a jacket.

    Like you said those bubble lines can come from other breeds of sheep other than merino. I believe I can show you with my forthcoming write up that is the case with the raiders film leather.

  6. #16

    Re: Deluxe Indiana Jones Temple of Doom jacket by Wested

    Quote Originally Posted by neutronbomb View Post
    Maybe I can change your mind about the Merino skins. I know I could if I sent you my jacket. Maybe someday when I visit Argentina I can show you in person.
    Of course!!!!!
    Anytime my friend! You are welcome!

    So I can take you to enjoy "asado" with the best red wines!

  7. #17
    Grizzled Grave Robber Knight of the Round Table neutronbomb's Avatar
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    ROTLA Film Jacket Leather is...French Plonge

    Moving forward with this thread here's some background on the leather:

    Made by Wested with french, vegetable tanned, plonge, aniline lambskins provided by Indymasilia. For more info check out these two links:

    http://www.fortuneandglory.org/threa...cket-by-Wested

    http://www.fortuneandglory.org/threa...Pankot-Palace!

    Here's some more clarification from Indymassilia:
    Concerning the aniline /plongé leather :
    -First these skins were vegetable tanning.
    -These leather are the best leather skin for a old natural looking in time.The patina of time will make them unique and with a great beauty.
    -The aniline/plongé is the treatment for the color -dip-dyed ,only for the most beautiful full grain leather skins with no imperfection.
    -This process consist to dive the skins for coloring them in successives baths of aniline pigment inside vat.

    At first Aniline is a oily /colorless substance to serve as basis of most of adjustment in creating leather colouring agents.

  8. #18
    Grizzled Grave Robber Knight of the Round Table neutronbomb's Avatar
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    ROTLA Film Jacket Leather is...French Plonge

    The first photo compare shows how well the jacket matches The Raiders Prototype Jacket as seen in Temple of Doom in terms of the leather texture, behavior, and drape. Knowing the leather is incredibly, super soft beyond the ability to describe adequately really helps to "see" the film jacket leather better. It's also very stretchy.



    This second photo shows the excellent color compare and variations with reddish and dark tones.



    This third photo compares the texture against the infamous Raiders Main Hero Jacket's striation bubbles across the chest/shoulder. In addition to the striation bubbles and overall texture match, check out the shoulder/chest area between the first photo and the film photo where the leather bends/folds/flows. Perfect.


    Vs. the ribby merino used by Platon.


    And vs the ribby merino skin wrinkles of dr. scobie alongside a jacket showing what it looks like using leather with those skin wrinkles.



    Cheers to Indymassilia for finding this leather!
    Last edited by neutronbomb; 01-13-2016 at 03:24 PM.

  9. #19

    Re: Deluxe Indiana Jones Temple of Doom jacket by Wested

    I see...
    Wow
    Mind blowing

    (side note: despite the color difference, looks a lot to the last batch of "washed lambskin" Wested offered. In terms of grain/looks)

    1 doubt:
    Do you think/believe that leather can develop the amount of grain in 30 years -or so- that Nowak saw on the screenused jacket he examined?
    Because I see it too smooth. More like the actual leather on the ToD NH jacket, which have no excesive grain on it.
    The jacket Tony had in hands (Hawaii Hero) was very grainy. He said that. And most probably same leather batch of the Raiders Main Hero.


    On replicating the jackets, the only thing is, to achieve the accurate look, the jacket should go through a distressing process before shipping (to much time, and attention to the correct method...increase costs A LOT)
    Or the orderer just waits for the grain to pop-out with regular wear.


    In about 2 months I have a meeting with the tannery people. To make the 2016 lamb/sheep order.

    I have to ask my lamb/sheep skins to be tanned as smooth as possible?
    In order to have screen-accurate leather for Raiders and ToD jackets ? ? ?
    Last edited by Indiego Jones; 01-13-2016 at 05:29 PM.

  10. #20
    Artifact Aficionado Knight of the Round Table Kt Templar's Avatar
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    Re: Deluxe Indiana Jones Temple of Doom jacket by Wested

    Indiego, totally agree on the grain. We all know, even though some of us seem to not want to believe it. Leather can be smooth, smooth-plated, ribby, ribby that has been enzyme treated to pop the grain... I like to call it Cold-Scrote . For a while, somewhere in the eighties the really heavy grain was popular, I've seen it once or twice, it's pretty nasty, US wings' Korean made jackets seem to hang around for a while.

    Ribby structure is considered a fault, they breed it out, or iron the leather (plated/grain correct) to try and give the consumer what they think they want, super smooth leather with consistent grain. But, if you treat plated leather with water like we sometimes do.... all the grain eventually pops out. Bingo you get what all the A2 guys keep trying to get in their jackets... Character.
    "Figuring things out for yourself is practically the only freedom anyone really has nowadays. Use that freedom." Jean Rasczak

 

 
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