View Full Version : Raiders jacket pattern

11-17-2010, 09:29 PM
Hello Todd

Could you clear up some of the information floating about your Raiders jacket pattern?

Some people claim your jacket is largely based from a certain 'stunt' jacket that was examined some 10 years ago.
I have read the description for that particular jacket and it does not match yours. I think you've said in the past that while you were given the measurements and description for that stunt jacket, you yourself ever examined it, and your Raiders jacket pattern is based on many hours of your own work, examining screen grabs, stills, watching the movie, developing it and setting the details.

Thank you.

11-17-2010, 09:59 PM
Here is a quote from Todd from another message board when asked if he measured a screen used jacket personally.

"As much as I'd like to make that claim, I have not measured a screen used jacket personally. I have the measurements provided graciously by _________, and I have a TN "warts and all" jacket. My conscience won't allow me to let this small misunderstanding to become "fact", although it would be to my advantage to let people believe it is true."

11-17-2010, 10:20 PM
I know as 100% fact that Todd also examined an Expedition [G&B] during the initial creation of his jackets. I know this because I let him use mine. I also owned his very first protype jacket that Todd made. Agent5 now owns it.

11-17-2010, 11:00 PM
I think that (although you may have to sift for the information through a lot of threads on several different sites) that Todd's jacket is based, primarily, on his examination of screen grabs (which I find utterly surprising as everyone knows you can't discern anything from studying, you know, pictures of the actual jacket). He has also stated that he had access to the notes of the alleged stunt jacket that was studied. Now, thanks to Mulder, we also know that he examined an Expedition (wasn't this also based off the notes of the alleged stunt jacket)?

11-17-2010, 11:03 PM
You are all correct. I did get measurements initially from Mr. Hayes, and I did examine Mulder's Expedition. I took the numbers and developed my own pattern based on observation. Numbers don't make a pattern. I found that all the numbers from Mr. Hayes, FS, and TN's jacket are very similar. When you're dealing with leather, variances of 1/4" here or there are really insignificant. You can stretch most leather panels more than that!

When you're dealing with garments, you're dealing with shapes, not numbers. The shapes are way more important. Raw numbers are fairly useless except to ballpark a general size.

Ultimately, all the information I gathered was fed into the Bat-Computer and where they coincided with my observations - great. Where they didn't - I went with my instinct. I knew that there were multiple jackets and the measurements wouldn't all match, so I didn't hesitate to deviate if I thought I needed to.

11-18-2010, 12:43 AM
thanks Todd for the clarification.

As for numbers, that makes sense. You can take measurements of many jackets that are not even of the same pattern and as long as the sizes are close come up with similarities. The numbers don't mean much. The look of the jacket and it's details do.

You're 'instinct' worked well for you :)

11-18-2010, 01:26 AM
So we really didn't learn anything new here did we?

11-18-2010, 01:41 AM
So we really didn't learn anything new here did we?

We've clarified some things and nailed some things down as fact. Which in the Indiana Jones jacket world, where stories change like the wind (not referring to Todd here as his story has stayed the same), that's something, isn't it?

11-18-2010, 01:44 AM
I'd say it's something

We've learned and confirmed that Todd's Raiders jacket is not largely based on/copied from a supposed stunt jacket that was examined 10 years ago.

11-18-2010, 01:59 AM
Yes, we did learn something, Todd has been communicative with the community, cleared up any possible misconceptions about his jacket, and, more important, what I have learned recently about Todd and his creative team:

Their work is top quality. My experience getting my custom RAIDERS jacket was a good one. And I wear my new jacket pretty much everyday.

To get a high quality hand made jacket, in the $500. range, is a great deal!

11-18-2010, 02:47 AM
I didn't know there were rumors floating around...

There's no secret about how I arrived at my pattern. Actually, I had started on it before I got the numbers from Mr. Hayes. I began with a jacket I already had in my closet (Adler, I think) and began to modify. The measurements I was given were very close to what I had arrived at on my own. Not really being a fashion design pro, it took me a long time and MANY hand-made cloth mock-ups before it looked right to me. In addition to the Flight Suits, I also had a USW. I studied each one, but I don't recall really taking any construction details from them.

That was a while ago, and I've continued to make little changes as I learn. There's no direct link to anybody's jacket. I learned what I could from every source available. Not very exciting, but that's the whole story.

11-18-2010, 12:46 PM

The truth does not need to be exciting.

Don't know if you remember but the leather on the first prototype I got from you was very similar to what the Tony Nowak Raiders [stretched lamb] looks like. At least it LOOKS that way, I have never seen any of Tony's jackets in person.

For a first attempt that Jacket came out fantastic.

11-18-2010, 02:39 PM
You have nailed a very accurate pattern Todd-- and the if custom option can yield a jacket like faststreets'... wow. Good science :). Good on ya!

11-18-2010, 02:40 PM
Managed to find my old photos of the Prototype


11-18-2010, 02:46 PM
Nice leather. Are the pocket flaps a little bigger on the current ones?

11-18-2010, 04:29 PM
That lamb could very well in fact be what Tony called shrunken lamb. The grain is very pronounced in the way the 'process' makes it.
Maybe Todd can comment. He has used 'shrunken lamb I know at least on Faststreets recent jacket, and he has a shrunken lamb jacket from Tony, so he knows what it is like.

Great looking leather on that jacket though Mulder, I wish more of Todd's lamb looked like that personally.

11-18-2010, 05:51 PM
That lamb looks very close to the shrunken lamb I've asked Riley to get me for my next Raiders jacket. Riley calls it "scaly lambskin" but its essentially the very first batch of shrunken lamb Tony used on his Raiders repro's when he offered them. I like the striated lamb, but its just a little too much for me. RC's striated lamb is a nice amount, but not sure if its entirely available anymore (its not as grainy as others I've seen).

11-18-2010, 09:31 PM
That is a very nice jacket. C'mon Todd, source some more of that. There's money I don't have burning a hole in my pocket!!

11-18-2010, 10:12 PM
I just remembered where I got that from... I had to pick through a pile to find skins that matched in color - you'll notice that the pocket is lighter than the panel it's on. I'll go back there and see if they have any more. The place I got it is a huge leather tannery, and what they have available is not consistent - odds & ends & leftovers. I had a hard time scraping together 5 or 6 hides that matched. Wow! What a huge memory jog! That hurt!

That was nice lamb... I'd forgotten all about it. That place does not do phone orders - you've got to go pick it yourself - sort of like a u-pick-it junkyard. They have certain stock upholstery leathers for cars and airplanes, but nothing I was interested in. I was always after the odd lots.

Pocket size - I really don't know. I don't remember changing the size. I sort of settled that in my mind at the start and haven't been inclined to change it that I can recall.

Austin Powers
11-20-2010, 12:32 AM
Wow I love that leather

11-20-2010, 04:39 PM
That leather looks good Todd. Personally I wouldn't want the jacket to have any more grain that though.

12-28-2010, 08:53 PM

I'm glad to hear you're doing custom orders again. Unlike many people, I like the Last Crusade jacket the best and am thinking about getting a custom made one. Have you ever considered making a LC jacket?

(For everyone else that may wonder who I am. This is Rick Deckard from COW.)