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Kt Templar
08-01-2010, 12:09 PM
One small observation to get things started.

I've bought shirts from nearly all the main vendors. The closest are Noel's IMO. One thing he nailed beyond a shadow of a doubt IMO, and something that all the others fall down on, is the correct fabric.

The shirt is slightly shiny. From my research I believe it to be mercurised cotton. A process that basically burns off some of the loose fibres on the outside of the yarn and gives it a slightly glossy finish.

When made into a shirt it is *just* visible to the naked eye but it effects the hand feel of the fabric considerably.

When a picture is taken with flash, the shine is revealed.

Off the top of my head it's hard to show you what I mean by the slight sheen. I can see it in the shirt in the captain's cabin in Raiders, and also in that studio shot publicity shot from Temple where he is pulling that slightly pouty face!

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/339/shineyshirt.jpg (http://img841.imageshack.us/i/shineyshirt.jpg/)
So here is a NH shirt on top of some other ones! You can see that he flash has brought out the sheen. Under normal lights it's a fraction of this.

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/7091/shirtst.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/i/shirtst.jpg/)

Screen used shirt:

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/3809/realshirt.jpg (http://img185.imageshack.us/i/realshirt.jpg/)

Topper
08-01-2010, 01:36 PM
I couldn't remember that I ever saw some Indy guy with a correct looking shirt. I had the Wested Indy Shirt once and didn't like it and 1 year or so ago I bought an Adventurebuilt Shirt.
Much better then the Wested but still nothing as it was on screen. It's also very big. I bought the smallest size available and it's not really a slimfit at all.
May I make a picture of this AB shirt soon. The Noel Howard Shirts is for sure the closest you can get. But they hard to get :(

crismans
08-01-2010, 02:22 PM
Thanks for this post, KT. I had never noticed this about the shirt so it was all new to me. I focus on the jacket and, to a lesser degree, the hat so much that my knowledge on the rest of the gear is somewhat lacking.

neutronbomb
08-01-2010, 05:22 PM
I have a Noel Howard and a Todd Coyle's and agree that it's very noticeable in the difference in the fabrics and had always wondered about the shine that NH's has. I think it gives it a superior look. Marc from AB Deluxe and told me I just have to get one of his shirts because it is the exact deal. I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but figured since I have a Coyle's and NH's I might as well get one I see what i think.

One thing I always wondered about NH's gear like shirt and pants is how close he was able to get them to the real deal 1980's costume that B&N put together. Material, etc.

Kt Templar
08-01-2010, 05:57 PM
Noel's shirt and trousers seem to deviate slightly as to the construction... isn't it aways the way! :angel:

He had a largish swatch of cloth that matched the shirt and his trouser material was exactly the same baring a slight colour difference.

So essentially as he had an original shirt and trousers to hand he could always refer back to them.

Why there were slight variances from the originals pattern wise.... I don't know for sure. I have a feeling that sometimes people make slight changes to repros so that they can be distinguished from the real deal so they can't be passed off as original. Of course you have to know what you are looking at. Remember the 'Kurtz' was hailed as an original LC jacket by many for a very long time until some of the people here came in with fresh eyes.

I like Marc's shirt, bit feel it may be a little slim cut in the shoulders, it is also a bit like Todd Coyle's jacket, a copy made from screencaps, filtered through fans eyes. All the bits may be there, but they may not all add up to the whole. I feel that Marc's shirt is a little too thick, heavy close knit cotton. Indubitably high quality but a bit too russly in the wind!

neutronbomb
08-02-2010, 05:55 PM
hmmmm............I feel lucky to have been abled to snag that Noel Howard shirt.

Kt Templar
08-03-2010, 06:53 PM
I've added a flash photo of the screen used shirt I saw in the first post.

Shows a bit of sheen too.

Raskolnikov
08-12-2010, 07:07 PM
All the bits may be there, but they may not all add up to the whole.

Hmm. That's a good point to think about when refering to repros in general.

djd
08-24-2010, 09:40 AM
I have an AB shirt, an Azuma, a Wested and a NH. The NH is lovely BUT it is one button short at the bottom which means if you're around 6' tall it tends to gape above the trousers! For this reason alone my AB is my default Indy shirt.

Kt Templar
08-24-2010, 11:40 AM
You can get an extra button hole put in by a seamstress. IIRC the NH had spare buttons?

The question then is, do you want to modify a NH shirt. :)

Todd
08-24-2010, 03:34 PM
KT, you're right about the fabric. I've noticed this. It does have a sheen. I'm sourcing new fabric for our next order.

One point I might add to the discussion: The strips/pleats on the front. If you look at the cabin scene, watch when Ford removes his shirt. For a brief moment the light from the windows shines through the shirt, and you can clearly see the shadow of the added strip of fabric. Also, the screen used Raiders shirt I've had indirect access to has sewn on strips.

One other reason for sewn on strips (I'm giving away one of my secrets here): The strips are not straight. They curve above the pocket. You'd never notice unless you laid a ruler next to it. This curve makes the strips appear parallel when worn. When they are straight, they appear to curve in towards the neck when worn. This curve is the only way to make the epaulette button/collar stand/strip line up as in Raiders.

Does the shirt Peter has have strips, or pleats sewn into the fabric? From the photos of the inside of the shirt, they look like strips. Don't worry - I'm not changing mine either way, I'm just curious if it's made the same.

As to color - I'd like to challenge all the Photoshop experts out there to give me your best color corrected screen caps.

Kt Templar
08-24-2010, 03:56 PM
No extra strips that I could find, some postulated that the shirt that Noel had was a ToD due to the colour of the buttons (they are the type on the shirt during the Thuggee attack in the bedroom). But the position of the pockets in relation to the buttons point to it being a Raiders!

All very confusing. :)

What I did notice was that the pleats are constructed slightly differently to how most of our shirt makers do them. Not hugely different, but enough.

Canyon
08-24-2010, 04:01 PM
Thanks for the post, KT.

I believe that the shirt is made from Swiss cotton, but had no idea about the 'burning' effect, so thanks for that! ;)

Here's me in my pouty pose...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3241/3019338229_70839fffd5.jpg


:D :D :D

Todd
08-24-2010, 04:43 PM
KT, I don't think all of the shirts matched. I see differences between the SOC shirt and some others. Didn't someone post a pic of a screen used shirt that had drastically uneven shirt tails? Where did I see that?

Who knows? A million things could account for the differences.

Pleat - yeah, it would have to be different. It's not that simple.

I'd still really like to do the color correction thing. BUT... you have to have a proper color calibrated monitor. And you have to correct the whole frame - no spot corrections. Let's see where we come out in the Pantone book. I know some of you guys are graphic artists and photoshop experts.

neutronbomb
08-25-2010, 06:29 PM
Ok a couple of quick questions:

1. My Todd Coyle shirt has 6 buttons. My Noel Howard has five. Not counting the collar stand button. I haven't been able to see from movie screencaps or stills definitively which is the correct # and am curious which is the correct number of buttons for the Rotla film? Is the shirts in the other films any different in this respect?

2. KT the Noel Howard looks like a different color compared to the picture you showed of the screen used shirt. Is this just due to the camera/lighting or do they look the same color to you when you look at them in person?

3. I'm not following 100% the sewn on strips vs the pleats. Did the shirts used in the ROTLA film have sewn on strips or pleats or both? Is the answer any different for the other films?

4. Is the pictures below that Hollywood provided in the Fedora section of this forum that is credited as being a Raiders shirt owned by Peter the same shirt as the one pictured above it that KT provided with the hole/tear in the back? Why does the one that Hollywood provided, the last pictures shown below the screen used shirt KT provided, show dark buttons if it is credited to the Raiders film?



One small observation to get things started.

I've bought shirts from nearly all the main vendors. The closest are Noel's IMO. One thing he nailed beyond a shadow of a doubt IMO, and something that all the others fall down on, is the correct fabric.

The shirt is slightly shiny. From my research I believe it to be mercurised cotton. A process that basically burns off some of the loose fibres on the outside of the yarn and gives it a slightly glossy finish.

When made into a shirt it is *just* visible to the naked eye but it effects the hand feel of the fabric considerably.

When a picture is taken with flash, the shine is revealed.

Off the top of my head it's hard to show you what I mean by the slight sheen. I can see it in the shirt in the captain's cabin in Raiders, and also in that studio shot publicity shot from Temple where he is pulling that slightly pouty face!

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/339/shineyshirt.jpg (http://img841.imageshack.us/i/shineyshirt.jpg/)
So here is a NH shirt on top of some other ones! You can see that he flash has brought out the sheen. Under normal lights it's a fraction of this.

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/7091/shirtst.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/i/shirtst.jpg/)

Screen used shirt:
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/3809/realshirt.jpg (http://img185.imageshack.us/i/realshirt.jpg/)


These two pictures below provided by Hollywood from the Fedora section of this Forum and attributed as Raiders film shirt owned by Peter:
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee83/tcbcollector/0103967.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee83/tcbcollector/2678392.jpg



I have an AB shirt, an Azuma, a Wested and a NH. The NH is lovely BUT it is one button short at the bottom which means if you're around 6' tall it tends to gape above the trousers! For this reason alone my AB is my default Indy shirt.




No extra strips that I could find, some postulated that the shirt that Noel had was a ToD due to the colour of the buttons (they are the type on the shirt during the Thuggee attack in the bedroom). But the position of the pockets in relation to the buttons point to it being a Raiders!

All very confusing. :)

What I did notice was that the pleats are constructed slightly differently to how most of our shirt makers do them. Not hugely different, but enough.

deadseascrolls
08-29-2010, 03:14 AM
I'm sure I've seen it listed here on this forum, but could somebody please tell me again where the Indiana Jones shirt was made at in LA (for CS)? I know the trousers were made in house at Western Costume, but the shirts were made by another place if I remember right.

Also, I read that that place will make a reproduction of the Indiana Jones shirt, but not quite the same due to copyrights, etc. I am assuming they will use the same type of fabric as used in the film, or am I wrong on that?

Lastly, if they do, I wonder if they'd be willing to sell the fabric. If so, how much would a person need to make a shirt. I was thinking that while they will not make the EXACT same shirt, if I could acquire the fabric, I'd have Magnoli make his adventure shirt with it. I think that would give me the closest look with the most cost feasibility.

Any info on this would be appreciated. Thanks!

PLATON
12-13-2010, 05:09 PM
KT it is called 'Mercerised'
and here's the story by wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercerised_cotton